It seems nothing is more unstable than the fashion industry nowadays. Creative directors dropping like flies and migrating to other labels, it’s a simple indication this industry is nothing more than checkers game to the big investors. It was then no surprise to read Peter Copping’s statement, where he dropped the bomb, he would be leaving the creative director position at Oscar De La Renta.
Copping, who was handpicked by Oscar directly before his passing, is now stepping down from the label only two years after his appointment, “After almost two years at Oscar de la Renta, personal circumstances require me to return to Europe. I have loved my time in New York, where I hope to return at some point in the future,” Copping explained. Although his first collection was well received, the seasons that followed his debut have not been as fortuitous as the brand was expecting, and rumor has it that is one of the main reasons of his exit.
At a plain view Copping did not gain the creative momentum that was expected of him. Given his bridal collections were a hit, he is still struggling with the brand’s ready-to-wear pieces, which have been bread and butter of ODLR since its beginnings. On paper, Mr. Copping seemed to be the ideal designer to continue Oscar’s legacy. Like Mr. de la Renta, Copping was known for creating designs that embodied femininity and sophistication. He even had the support of Anna Wintour, since she was the one who brought him to de la Renta in the first place.
While no one has been chosen to take his place, all the rumors point to ODLR former team members Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, who not only knew Oscar but worked along with him for many years. Another person that could be in line is Nina Ricci’s creative director, who was planned to take over the brand after Oscar’s passing, but was abruptly pushed up. The lingering question now is who out of the pool of candidates could keep Oscar’s essence alive while driving the brand to a greater success.
Now more than ever, it seems these abrupt moves in the fashion industry take place as much as women change shoes, and long are the days were the creative directors would spend over 10 years in one label. Let’s not forget Marc Jacobs spent over 16 years at Louis Vuitton, while John Galliano spent 15 years at Dior prior to his destitution. All which only makes us believe that top executives in these labels are questioning practicality and success, while trying to adapt to the current volatile fashion system.